Vertical - Diagonal Capillary Stove Comparisons

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Vertical - Diagonal Capillary Stove Comparisons

Postby Karl Klavon » Sat Jan 23, 2016 12:44 pm

Before we get started with the actual comparison, I believe a definition of nomenclature is inorder. So from hence forth FF will stand for the Fancy Feast Cat Food Can. LVS will stand for the Libby's Vienna Sausage Can, FC will stand for the Fuel Cup, which will always be a FF can, and the Inner CH Cylinder will always be a LVS can. Boil Time will be shortened to BT. Run Out Time shown as RO, and where appropriate Flame Out Time will be shown as FO. Stove Mode indicates that the burner is being used as a stove, with the pot resting directly on top of the burner. Pot Stand Mode will indicate that a separate 2 3/4" tall, 3- Stainless Steel Spoke Bicycle Pot Stand is being used to provide a 1" Flame To Pot Bottom Distance - FTPBD. CH will stand for Capillary Hoop, with V standing for Vertical creases and D denoting for Diagonal ones. The Number 8 signifies that 8 creases placed in the inner cylinder are being used, with CYL standing for the Cylinder. W will stand for the word "with" in all applications.

The 8-V/CH/Stove:..................................The 8-D/CH/Stove:

FC - 1 7/16" tall FF can......................................FC - 1 7/16" tall FF can
CH/CYL - 1 3/4" tall LVS can.............................CH/CYL - 1 3/4" tall LVS can

Stove Mode: - W a 5/16" FTPBD.......... Stove Mode: W an 3/8" FTPBD (difference of construction tolerances)
BT - 8:00............................................................BT - 9:30
RO - 13:15.........................................................RO - 15:40

Pot Stand Mode: W 1" FTPBD............. Pot Stand Mode: W a 1" (+/-) FTPBD
BT - 4:20............................................................BT - 4:35
RO - 7:30 FO - 7:45...........................................RO - 7:15 FO - 7:30

With the short FTPBDistances and the pot resting directly on the burner/stove, the pot of cold water would put the flame out unless the stove was well heated, the pot was held over the flame to warm it up for a while and then the pot had to be lowered slowly on to the stove. The above times were achieved with 1 Oz. of Heet . Two ounces, I believe, would have resulted in better than 20 minuet simmer times.

In the building of the above 8-DCH inner CYL I made a measuring mistake, cutting the length to 1 1/4", which made an inner CYL I could not use. So I decided to fabricate a Simmer Cat/LVS Can 8D/CH Hybrid Stove, with the following results.

16-Hole Simmer Cat Stove/W 1 1/4" tall 8-DCH Insert:

FC - 1 7/16" tall FF can
8-DCH-CYL - 1 1/4" tall LVS can

Stove Mode 1 7/16" tall:

BT - 6:30
FO - 11:15 on 1 Oz. Heet

2 Ounces of Heet produced:
BT - 9:30
RO - 27:20

Pot Stand Mode @ 2 3/4" tall:

BT - 3: 45
RO - 4:30
FO - 5:20

Because the CH insert was made out of a LVS can which has the same diameter as the FF Cat food can, the insert can not be pushed all the way to the bottom of the FF can, leaving about a 1/4" gap the alcohol vapor has to climb when the fuel level drops below the bottom of the CH insert. So I put a Carbon Felt disc in the bottom of the stove, tucking the CF under the CHs with a tooth pick and ran another boil test. The BT came out at the same 6:30 but, the RO time advanced from 11:15 to 13:00 minuets. Seeing all the design and building hoops the Japanese alcohol stove makers are going through, cutting skirts, clipping Vs and bending the tabs in and out depending on construction, the carbon felt bottom disk seems to be a faster and easier solution. Whether a 1:45 longer burn time justifies the add cost of the carbon felt, you will have to decide for your self.

The frosting on the cake was that this stove was not cold pot sensitive at all.
Karl Klavon
 
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