My buddy Andy and I had a free weekend in July of 2014 and we were itching to get into the mountains. We both needed to recharge for a couple of days and set our sights on a string of alpine lakes on the east side of the Sierra Nevada. Up in the rarefied air of the high sierra, the lakes were just a few hours drive from Los Angeles but a world away from the urban chaos and congestion.
We’d heard rumors of trout and decided to make this a fishing trip. I’d done a little fishing with my father as a kid, mostly bait fishing and some western fly fishing. In the course of researching ultralight backpacking I’d stumbled onto tenkara and bought a rod and line. It sounded like a great way to augment my limited trail meals with a little bit of protein I didn’t have to carry in on my back. A means to an end. For me, this trip would be a way to try tenkara before committing to it on a longer section hike of the nearby John Muir Trail. Andy didn’t care much about tenkara at the time, but wanted to try out his 9’0” 5wt western fly rig - with about the same goals in mind.
After blasting across the Mojave on Saturday morning we stopped in Lone Pine for supplies. We visited the local fishing shop for some fly selection advice from the elderly proprietor shortly after he opened. Then it was on to the local grocer for instant stuffing, instant oatmeal, instant coffee, and Clif bars. As an afterthought, I remembered a blog post Daniel had put up on the TenkaraUSA site about kotsuzake, a ritual concoction of warm sake with roasted trout bones soaked in it, consumed to honor the fish after eating it’s flesh. Since the plan was to eat at least one of the fish we hoped to catch, I suggested we needed sake. Andy agreed, but Andy usually agrees whenever there’s alcohol involved. The only bottle of sake in the store was a pretty rough junmai with a thin layer of dust on it. Sold!
At the trailhead we sorted gear and met a pair of climbers heading into the backcountry. They were after a high sierra alpine route on a remote peak, one of the classics, and I felt a pang of jealousy. But we were going fishing, damnit! We offered them some of the sake we had leftover after decanting it into a lighter bottle for the hike, and they accepted. Who doesn’t like cheap sake on a Saturday morning before a long hike with heavy climbing gear?
We made good time hiking up the two miles and 1,200’ of elevation gain. The trail paralleled the creek tumbling out of the lakes above and cut up through a sparse ponderosa forest with a carpet of lupine and leopard lilies. Huffing and puffing, we got to the first of the string of lakes. At 10,400’ elevation, it looked like a large infinity pool overlooking the desert of the Owens Valley below and the White Mountains beyond. This was just what we needed. To sweeten the pot, we could see trout cruising the clear, shallow water at the lake’s edge. Of course, high sierra trout tend to be quite small because of the elevation and long winters, but these looked like trophy fish to us.
Tempting as it was to dig out our gear and get to fishing, we decided to hike on and investigate the other nearby lakes. The next lake over was smaller but also had trout circling the shallows and a couple of folks fishing for them from the shore. We nodded to them as we hiked over a ridge and on for a half mile or so to the next lake over. To our surprise, this lake was devoid of fish, but absolutely lousy with small backpacking tents around it’s periphery. Perhaps due to the absence of fish it was full of tadpoles and frogs croaking away as the afternoon wore on. We wondered why this lake was the one full of campers, particularly with the the cacophony of the frogs. Oh well, time to get back to that first lake and see if we couldn’t catch some of those beautiful trout.
We hiked back quickly and unpacked our gear. We had the lake to ourselves. As I was telescoping my 12’ Iwana and tying line to lillian, Andy brought out his rod tube and realized he was missing the middle piece of his 3 piece rod. His rod was useless without it. I offered that we could trade off with my gear while he cursed at himself for not packing more carefully. He entertained the idea of hiking back down to the car to look for the missing section, but thought better of it this late in the afternoon. Fine, we’d trade off.
Knowing very little about fly fishing and nothing at all about nymphing (not that we had any nymphs), we couldn’t interest the fish even mildly in our offerings. We tried a few different flies; elk hair caddis in a couple of sizes, a black ant pattern, and finally a mosquito our elderly advisor back in Lone Pine had assured us would work. All to no avail.
Then a funny thing happened. Almost at once the fish started rising in the last 30 minutes before dusk and the lake surface slowly roiled from shore to shore. Just as we were about to pack it in we were getting bite after bite, bringing fish after fish to hand. We would each catch a couple of fish and trade the rig back, giggling and hooting for each other like a couple of children. By the time the sun set and the fish settled the mosquito pattern left on the end of the tippet was dogeared and dull. We had three fish we decided to keep, a brook, a brown, and a second brown that had been so badly foul hooked that it wouldn’t have survived anyway.
We made camp, cleaned the fish, and cooked them “shioyaki style,” grilled in sea salt over a small camp stove. The fresh trout was amazing, and the kotsuzake afterwards was tasty despite the quality of the sake. We slept under the stars that night with bellies warm from the sake and still with the lake to ourselves. In the morning we made our instant breakfast of coffee and oatmeal and broke camp while grumbling about having to return to our claustrophobic city lives.
On our way home we made one last stop at a spot that we both had meant to visit for years, Manzanar National Historic Site. Manzanar, now a part of the National Park System, was one of ten internment camps where Japanese American citizens were incarcerated during World War II (
https://www.nps.gov/manz/index.htm). Apparently the prisoners at Manzanar had a surreptitious fishing club as a way to combat the boredom and oppression of their internment. In the early days of the camp they tied bent needles with silk thread lines onto willow poles to fish for trout in the streams coming down out of the sierra nearby. Though they didn’t call it tenkara, it was very similar to the fishing Andy and I had done in the headwaters of those same streams the day before.
Andy and I returned home excited about tenkara, our new method to combat the chaos and congestion of Los Angeles.